Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2019 collection, unveiled amidst the vibrant energy of Paris Fashion Week, was a masterclass in refined rebellion. Anthony Vaccarello, the creative director at the helm, delivered a show that was both a respectful nod to the house's iconic legacy and a bold statement of contemporary cool. The collection, far from being a simple rehash of past glories, was a carefully constructed tapestry of contrasting textures, silhouettes, and moods, creating a compelling narrative that resonated deeply with the fashion world. This exploration delves into the key elements of YSL SS19, analyzing its design choices, influences, and lasting impact.
A Modern Take on Classic Saint Laurent:
The show itself was a spectacle. Held in a stark, minimalist setting, the collection's dramatic impact wasn't diluted by superfluous staging. The focus remained squarely on the clothes, allowing their inherent power to shine through. Vaccarello expertly navigated the delicate balance between honoring Yves Saint Laurent's groundbreaking legacy and injecting his own modern sensibility. While the collection certainly contained echoes of the house's signature styles – the sharp tailoring, the sleek silhouettes, the unwavering confidence – it was far from a nostalgic reproduction.
The SS19 collection built upon Vaccarello's established aesthetic, a blend of rock 'n' roll grit and Parisian sophistication. He maintained his signature use of black, a color synonymous with Saint Laurent, but infused it with unexpected textures and details. Leather, a recurring motif throughout his tenure at the house, appeared in various forms, from sleek, tailored jackets to flowing, almost ethereal dresses. These weren't the rough-and-tumble leathers of a biker jacket; rather, they possessed a luxurious, almost sensual quality, speaking to a refined sense of rebellion.
Silhouettes and Structure:
The silhouettes were undeniably powerful. Sharp shoulders and structured jackets were a recurring theme, creating a sense of strength and authority. These were balanced by flowing, almost diaphanous gowns, creating a compelling juxtaposition of power and femininity. The structured pieces often featured bold, graphic lines, emphasizing the architectural precision of the designs. The tailoring was impeccable, a testament to the house's commitment to craftsmanship and attention to detail. This meticulous tailoring wasn't confined to the more formal pieces; even the more casual elements, such as the denim jackets and trousers, displayed an exceptional level of skill and precision.
The use of contrasting proportions was a key element of the collection's success. Mini skirts were paired with oversized blazers, creating a dynamic interplay of scale and proportion. Similarly, tightly fitted bodices were balanced by voluminous skirts, emphasizing the feminine form while maintaining a sense of modern edge. This skillful manipulation of silhouette created a collection that was both bold and alluring.
The Power of Texture and Detail:
The collection wasn't simply about sharp lines and structured silhouettes; it was also a masterful exploration of texture. The interplay of smooth leather, crisp cotton, and sheer silk created a rich visual tapestry. The use of embellishment was restrained but effective, with subtle details like delicate embroidery and metallic accents adding a touch of luxury without overwhelming the overall aesthetic. The attention to detail was evident in every aspect of the collection, from the perfectly placed seams to the carefully chosen buttons. These subtle touches elevated the garments from simply fashionable to truly exceptional.
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